Creating a Fire-Resilient Home
while supporting wildlife and native plants
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Best Management Practices by the CNPS Wildfire Community. Updated July 2024.
Homes must be protected from three possible sources of ignition:
- Flying embers, which come from as much as a mile away and land on or near the house or plants (60-90% of homes lost in recent fires are due to this).
- An approaching fire front, which must be kept from leading up to the house through the burning of continuous plants and other combustibles, such as wood piles, outdoor furniture, etc.
- Radiant heat from burning plants, outbuildings, or other combustibles (including a neighbor’s house within 50 ft).
To keep a home from catching fire, there are TWO equally important courses of action needed:
1. Home hardening:
See CAL FIRE’s excellent “Wildfire Home Retrofit Guide” or take their equally useful self-assessment of your home’s wildfire resilience.

2. Defensible Space:This helps protect a home and gives firefighters a safer place to fight. It is best thought of as composed of three zones:
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- 0-5 feet = Home ignition zone: The zone of true clearance.
- 5-30 feet = Moderate preparation zone
- 30-100+ feet = Less intense preparation zone
Start with the house and work out (or, when planting in the garden, put plants where they will meet the actions below when mature).


Calscape Garden Planner
On this interactive journey with Calscape, you share your likes, and we curate a tailored list of California natives, complete with a conceptual firewise design.
0-5 Foot Zone from Structure and Its Attachments (Home Ignition Zone)

The home ignition zone is the most critical for fire resilience. Get serious here. The goal is not to allow flying embers to hit anything flammable, which can then catch a home on fire. Focus on non-flammable ground cover like decomposed granite, hardscape, gravel, cobble, or even bare dirt here.
- Best practice: No plants in this zone. This is a paradigm shift from the old “foundation plants” but one of the most effective things a resident can do. All plants can burn.
- Remove the portion of a tree that extends within 10 feet of the outlet of a chimney or stovepipe, or even within 10 feet of the roof itself. Keeping branches from overhanging a roof generally means less debris to clear.
- Resist the urge to use this handy near-home 0-5 ft area to store flammable materials like wooden chairs, cushions, brooms, leftover firewood, etc. Do not store anything flammable under decks either, including construction wood or recreational equipment (remember that plastic, such as kayaks, burns too).
- Keep dead leaves and pine needles raked up off the ground, off the deck, off the roof, and out of the gutters (gutter guards can greatly help: metal micromesh is recommended for ease of maintenance). This needs to be kept up year-round, as fire season reaches more and more of the year.
- Wooden decks touching the house are a special risk because embers can accumulate on this flammable horizontal surface. Consider replacing the board nearest the building with a metal one, and/or installing non-flammable siding next to the deck, or bitumen flashing on joists at gaps. If a deck is low, consider replacing it with a hardscape patio (below). At the very least, keep debris from collecting in the cracks between boards (larger board spacing can help).

5-30 Foot Zone from Structure and Its Attachments
A little more relaxed here, but keep vegetation well-spaced both vertically and horizontally. You don’t want an oncoming crown fire to be fueled right up to your house. A fire-resilient landscape can still be water-conserving and wildlife-friendly. Remember, every decision we make also affects other living creatures.
- Assess the area: Which trees and/or shrubs would you like to keep as specimens? If you choose natives, you will enhance wildlife as well as aesthetics. Large mature trees are generally less prone to burning than smaller, young trees, and can often be kept. Also, oak trees are generally less flammable than conifers.
- For the trees kept, make sure they are well-spaced from each other, and remove any shrubs growing right beneath them (which could act as “ladder fuel,” helping sustain an approaching ground-to-canopy crown fire—a dangerous situation). Limb trees up at least 6 feet from the ground (but not more than 1/3 their height). Limbing trees up can be highly effective in keeping crown fires from sustaining themselves.
- For shrubs kept, are they well-spaced on their own, or might you create small shrub islands, well-spaced from other shrubs and trees? One rule of thumb is to space a shrub or island horizontally so that it is at least twice its height away from another and to keep islands to 10 ft wide or less (Board of Forestry recommendation).
- Landscape interest can be created with nonflammable items like rock/stone, hardscaping, metal benches, etc.
- Dry streams or gravel swales can also be used and have the added benefit of allowing rainwater to slow, spread, and sink into the ground on-site. This can help plants keep their moisture content up longer into the dry season (as well as reducing water needs).
- With bark, chips, or other flammable mulches in this intermediate zone, spread it into well-spaced patches, which can help retain moisture and eliminate weeds while not being a continuous fire path. Compost or composted bark is the least flammable mulch and is recommended.
- Dead leaf litter in the rainy season can be important for overwintering insects and for reducing erosion. In spring, reduce to just one layer. This can help with tree health and moisture retention, thereby reducing fire hazards during the long summer drought ahead.
- Bare ground here and there can be good for native bees, as well as fire resilience. Keep weeds removed or mowed to 4 inches or less. If you have native wildflowers, grasses, or bulbs, weed-eat around them until they have had a chance to set seed (usually early summer). String trimmers are recommended from early summer through fall (mowers have metal blades that can throw sparks).
- Water natives deeply and infrequently (once a month for many) during early mornings in summer and fall to keep plant moisture up and flammability down. Some Southern California experts advocate for 2-3 times a month of light overhead sprinkling instead, mimicking summer thunderstorms.
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Avoid highly flammable plants in this zone altogether. When choosing plants to keep (or to plant): Calscape.org helps you find plants native to your specific area. Signs that a plant might be particularly flammable include aromatic/resinous foliage, a high natural accumulation of dead material, and/or a closed structure that can easily catch embers. You can also try these resources:
- Bay Area
- Sierra Foothills
- Southern California
- Firescaping Your Home, A Manual for Readiness in Wildfire Country, by Adrienne Edwards and Rachel Schlepper, Timber Press, 2023
- Maintenance: A critical ongoing step! Keep dead plant material pruned out (including deep inside shrubs), trees limbed up, shrubs thinned to a more open structure, vines out of trees, and weeds short or pulled out.
- In spring, avoid disturbing bird or other wildlife nests you might find, delaying pruning till summer. Fall and winter are good times to prune most trees and deciduous shrubs, while summer can be best for pruning evergreen native shrubs. (See California Native Gardening, A Month by Month Guide by Helen Popper for more maintenance of natives information).
- Mature trees often don’t need to be removed – limbing up at least 6 feet is very effective and allowed by CAL FIRE.





30-100 Foot Zone (Outer Zone of Defensible Space)
This area is not as critical as the closer zones but still important. Having 100 feet (or more if on a steep slope) of reduced fuel connectivity can help any approaching crown fire drop to the ground as a slower, less intense surface fire.
- Trees can be a little closer in this zone, as can shrubs and islands of vegetation. 4 – 40 feet of separation is still needed, depending on slope, and vegetation type/size.
- The “continuous canopy option” is a second option for mature trees that are at least 30 ft out from the house, as allowed by CAL FIRE. With this approach, approved by the Board of Forestry, stands of touching mature trees can be kept, as long as there are no plants underneath greater than 4 inches tall.
- Continue to avoid letting shrubs or small trees grow under larger ones, and to keep dead material pruned out.
- A few scattered dead logs, so important to wildlife, can be left on the ground here, if isolated from other vegetation.
- Loose surface litter, such as mulch or fallen leaves and needles, can be up to 3 inches deep in this zone. Patchy mulch is still best.
- Keep weeds down to 4 inches or less with a string trimmer.
- Any propane tanks or firewood piles should be stored in this zone (at least 30 ft out) and kept separate from plants (10 feet of true clearance is recommended around these items).
- Maintenance: Still a critical activity in this zone!
Beyond 100 Feet
In chaparral, continuing defensible space beyond 100 feet is probably not necessary based on studies done in Southern California. But in Northern California woodlands, a 2021 study of the Camp Fire showed that keeping canopy cover to roughly 50% for 300 feet may actually be helpful to home survival. And if you live on a hillside, defensible space out 200-300 ft is generally recommended.
In general:
- Focus here on keeping the wildlands of your property healthy and not too badly overgrown from past fire exclusion (unless you live in Southern California chaparral).
- Dead snags can be left for wildlife unless numerous.
Residents near wildlands can be part of the solution by preparing their homes and property to be fire resilient. We CAN learn to live with wildfire and help support the plants and wildlife we share the land with.
Fire Recovery Guide
Ways to make your property more resilient with science-based guidance for your local habitat.