Festuca californica

Is Festuca californica a prime choice for effective and attractive erosion control on a southwest facing slope in Oakland, CA?What might be more recommended?Will it work?

Situation: The soil is clay. The hill is a residential lot, sloping toward the sidewalk and street. It needs retaining walls, and probably terracing but it'll be a very long time before that will be affordable. Ivy has been holding it fairly well together but rhere is a large patch now bare. Rather than plant more ivy, I'd prefer to encourage a replacement, and one that is more effective. Thanks for helpful info.</p>

Leslie,Festuca californiaca is a bunch grass and does not spread by rhizomes that I am aware of and so would be moderate in its slope holding capacity. Certainly not bad, but certainly there are others that would do the job better even on a warm south facing slope. Have you tried contacting Tilden Botanic Garden up in Berkely and see what they might reccomend?After discovering a native that you would like to use perhaps it would be wise to consider why you have a bare patch anyway. Ussually it means lack of water for ivy to die out. If that is the case perhaps you would wish to correct that problem while your new natives are getting 'settled in'. Complete lack of water makes it tough for even drought tolerant natives to become established and look their best.I would be interested in what you learn. Would you share it with the board?Best-Dan</p>

Thanks! Dan, for the idea to call Tildon Botanical Garden. Worked like a charm.

Recommended plant: Muhlenbergia rigens

Backgound:Rhizomes not necessary. The Muhlenbergia rigens roots should grow @ 5' deep and should work. Problem with the Festuca californica is that the SW aspect is too sunny.

Instructions:Plant 3-4' centers, bunches will knit together. Requires watering 1st year, then nothing. Plant by end of Apr. in Oakland mild, not as hot as inland and do not allow to become dry all summer, or plant in Oct.

Reinvorgorate plants every 3-4 years from accumulated dead leaves and flowers. One option is to cut plants down to 6' stubs. Another option is to prune into a hemispherical shape then comb out debris with a spring rake held flipped over.

Tips on where and how to find the plants were also given.

About the current ivy and bare patch: Ivy was growing and I created the bare patch. The Tilden rep felt that Ivy would win out if the two plants were left together, so recommended getting rid of the ivy then planting the bunch grass.

New questions;Now I'm just wondering if I need to, or should, prepare the clay in any way; how to place the plants in relation to the part of the hill that would be the top of a vertical retaining wall and is really an almost vertical, eroding clay hill/wall; are there any particular placing patterns that are effective and pleasing, not linear rows; is there something to plant along the actual vertical clay face.

You did so well the first time. I'll take any tips you might have to offer. Am thinking, assuming it works, this is going to be so lovely that I can dispense with retaining walls forever.

Thanks very much - Leslie</p>

Leslie,Yes, Deergrass will work fine. Certainly sturdy and well rooted. In our county we often find them in grass lands with other natives where a seep occurs, and yet when I plant them in garden situations find they need little if any extra water once established, as you kindly noted in your post to the board, Thank you for sharing!

Now, as regards the actual planting and arranging, no ammendments are needed or really desired for that matter. I have had excellent results in straight clay. As regards the physical planting of the grass i would choose one gallon plants and follow the advice found on pg. 549 of the last Sunset Western Garden Book, or page 672 of the most recent new edition, showing how to most effectively plant on a slope. It really works. Finally, with regard to placement i give the following advice. Simply plant them roughly three feet or a bit further apart from one another and don't worry too much about trying to create a natural pattern with them. Rancho Santa Ana Botanic Garden did a fairly large area all in Deergrass and in a fairly regimented row system. By the time they matured and overlapped a bit they looked quite natural. Take into account that there will be slight variations in growth rates anyway so it all will be fine. Glad to hear you are on the road to using natives and that you have used such a fine resource as Tilden for suggestions.

Best-Dan</p>

Dan, Thanks for working with me, and thanks for the info and tips. I'm interested in learning the slope-planting technique but my Sunset Western Garden book, copywight 2001, has no such info on the pages you mentioned. Neither have I found a section with such info. Can you help me again by helping me figure out what I am doing wrong, or where else to look? Thanks!</p>

Leslie,The Sunset book I have is 2001 and it is on page 672. Perhaps you are looking for a big article? It is simply a small picture of the planting method. A picture is worth a thousand words anywayBut, If your edition has the pages different, try looking under the heading, 'Ground Covers', for it is there that the drawing exists.

Best-Dan</p>

Dan - Got it! Thanks so much - Leslie</p>